A Winter Guide to 72 Hours in the Eternal City

Rome, a city where ancient history meets golden-hour magic, takes on a different kind of beauty in winter. The crowds thin, the light is softer, and the atmosphere feels more intimate.

Day One: Golden Hour Beginnings

Landing in Rome in the early afternoon, we got straight onto the budget-friendly Leonardo Express train from Fiumicino Airport, which took us into the heart of the city in just under 30 minutes. Stepping off at Termini Station, we headed toward Monti, one of Rome’s most charming neighborhoods, with its winding cobbled lanes, hidden courtyards, and cafés.

Our hotel, The Fifteen Keys, also located in Monti, was a cozy retreat—complete with a balcony, a spacious shower, and thoughtful touches like complimentary water bottles, which proved essential for the long days of walking ahead (and trust me, there would be plenty). After settling in, we sipped on a welcome coffee from the lovely staff before heading out to explore the city in the evening golden hour.

With the sun beginning to dip, we embarked on an hour-long walk towards Janiculum Hill, one of the best sunset spots in the city. Along the way, we passed the Colosseum, its ancient arches bathed in the warm glow of twilight. The golden light hitting the ruins and streets made for some incredible photo opportunities. The further we walked, the quieter the city became, giving us a moment to soak in the history and beauty of Rome.

Janiculum Hill is a historic vantage point, once a key strategic location for battles and now a peaceful retreat overlooking the city. As we reached the top, the city stretched out before us, a sea of terracotta rooftops and church domes glowing in the last light of the day. From here, we captured panoramic shots of Rome as the sun dipped below the skyline, casting a warm haze over the city.

As darkness fell, we wandered into Trastevere, a neighbourhood known for its lively atmosphere and excellent food. Our dinner spot, Canonica, was reasonably priced, with a half-litre of wine for just 9 euros and mains for around 12 euros. Despite it being January, we were able to sit outside comfortably with plenty of outdoor heaters, soaking in the ambience of the bustling streets.

After dinner, we took a nighttime stroll through the city’s most iconic landmarks—the Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon, and the Colosseum—each illuminated beautifully against the dark sky. The Trevi Fountain, especially, is a must-shoot at night when the crowds thin. To end the night on a sweet note, we indulged in some gelato—because no trip to Rome is complete without it.

Day Two: Mornings in the Gardens & Panoramic Views

We woke up early to make the most of the day, starting with a wonderful breakfast at the hotel. We were welcomed with smoothies and wellness shots, alongside a spread of beautiful baked goods, yogurts, fruits, and cheeses.

Our first stop was the gardens of Villa Borghese, a historical estate dating back to the 17th century, filled with sculptures, fountains, and tree-lined pathways that make for dreamy compositions. We took advantage of the stunning photo spot at Terrazza Viale del Belvedere, capturing sweeping views of the rooftops below.

One of the most enchanting spots in Villa Borghese is its lake. On a sunny day, renting a boat is a great way to enjoy the peaceful setting, surrounded by trees and the beautiful Temple of Aesculapius. It’s a quiet escape from the busy city and a lovely spot for a romantic moment in Rome.

In need of a treat, I came across a bakery selling Maritozzo con la Panna, a traditional Roman cream-filled bun that was as delicious as it looked. For lunch, we wandered through Parione and stumbled upon Emporio alla Pace, a local spot where we enjoyed freshly made focaccia sandwiches and cappuccinos—all for around 5 euros.

We made our way up the grand steps of the Monument to Victor Emmanuel II, feeling the weight of history as we ascended. Once at the top, the stunning views of Rome unfolded before us—rooftops, domes, and ancient ruins stretching out in every direction, bathed in the soft glow of the late afternoon sun. At the top, we found a rooftop café offering the perfect spot to relax and take it all in. Of course, we couldn’t resist some tiramisu.

By late afternoon, we returned to our hotel for their complimentary afternoon tea and cake, giving our feet a much-needed rest before the evening ahead.

For dinner, we stayed close to our hotel and later explored Monti’s incredible wine bars—each offering a warm, atmospheric end to another unforgettable day in Rome.

Day Three: Sunlit Strolls & Vatican Vistas

Our final morning in Rome greeted us with sunshine, making the city feel even more vibrant. After another delightful hotel breakfast, we set out with no strict itinerary—just a desire to explore and take in the atmosphere.

Enjoying the sunny morning, our first stop was the Pantheon, one of the best-preserved monuments of Ancient Rome. Built nearly 2,000 years ago, its massive domed ceiling remains an architectural marvel. The morning light streaming through the oculus provided a stunning contrast of shadows and highlights, making it a perfect subject for photography.

We then made our way toward Vatican City, walking along the Tiber River, where the morning light reflected beautifully on the water. Though we didn’t enter Vatican City, we admired its grandeur from the outside, capturing shots of the iconic St. Peter’s Basilica framed by the riverbanks.

From there, we followed the river’s path back toward Trastevere, taking in the relaxed Sunday-like atmosphere. A highlight of this stretch was hearing jazz musicians performing on one of the bridges, adding a cinematic feel to our walk. In Trastevere, we found the perfect sunny spot to enjoy our last meal.

With just a few hours left, we took one final loop around the city, revisiting our favorite local lunch spot and savoring a 1.30 euro coffee. Our last stop was the Colosseum, bathed in golden afternoon light.

Finally, we took the easy 30-minute train back to the airport, sad to leave but grateful for a trip that showed how beautiful Rome is in winter—quiet, peaceful, and filled with charm.

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